Portovenere, a real pearl of the La Spezia bay, is located at the very end of its western bank. The best advice on how to get to Portovenere is to take a boat, also to admire the picturesque village from the sea.
In summer, the best way to get to Portovenere is by ferry boat (see schedule here). From the harbor on the Passeggiata Morin, in summer you can take a boat almost at every hour from 9am to 6pm. Unfortunately, there is no service at night, so keep this in mind when you plan your visit : a night out in this beautiful town can be worth a little search for a parking lot or a half an hour bus ride. You can also buy a one way boat ticket in La Spezia and get back by bus. Bus service runs very frequently all year around.
Portovenere is a unique place, with a view of the dramatic steep cliff coast beyond the Gulf, towards the Cinque Terre and Genova. You could almost say that nature here turned itself into a town, or that a urban space found itself seamlessly set between the blue of the sea, the white and black of the rocks, the emerald maquis.
The town is located at the southern end of a peninsula which, breaking away from the jagged coastline of the Riviera, forms the western shore of the Gulf of La Spezia. At the end of this peninsula are three small islands: Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto; only the island of Palmaria, which lies directly opposite the village of Portovenere beyond a narrow sea channel, is inhabited.
Portovenere is famous also for the presence of natural sea caves: the Azzurra in Palmaria (semi submerged), the one in the Tinetto island and The Byron cave (Grotta Byron) named after the English poet who used to find here inspiration for his literary works.
The church of San Pietro, standing against the waves at the very edge of the peninsula is a charming and sacred witness of the ancient origins of Portovenere : this was perhaps originally a small pagan temple dedicated to Venus and placed here because in the tradition Venus stems from a shell out of the sea. Ancient Benedictine monastic settlements were found in Portovenere and especially in the islands of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto, dating back to the early Christian era.
Only for a brief time under a Tuscan feudatary, Portovenere was surrendered to the Genovese Republic for which it became a military outpost and fortified village, secured on the waterfront by the line of tower houses with no openings, by the city walls and a fortress at its back.
- By ferry: the best way to get to Portovenere, also to admire the town from the sea. From the pier on the La Spezia, in the summer Morin Walk you can take a boat almost every hour from 9am to 18pm (see the schedule here). After sunset, it is not available any services by sea.
- By car: from La Spezia, one road leads to Portovenere, which is about 10 km away. Follow the road signs leading to the Fieschi Avenue. After exiting the city, the road passes through some fishing villages to get to Portovenere. Portovenere is at the end of the gulf and from there by car, you can just go back. Before arriving in Portovenere, you can leave the car at the location of Il Cavo, the highest point of the village, where is a large car park. From here you can choose among many stairs leading to the beaches and the town, or choose the available shuttle service.
- By bus: From La Spezia, the bus service to Portovenere is very frequent. Along most city stops, you can take the bus “P – 11” leading to the center of Portovenere with the frequency of about 15 minutes, from 5.30 am to 8 pm. There is also a night service until midnight with a frequency of about two hours. On the occasion of the summer events, the service is reinforced to allow everyone to easily reach Portovenere. In these circumstances it is generally better not to use the car to reach the village.
The trekking trails in the area of Portovenere, Le Grazie, Mount Muzzerone, Campiglia are some of the most interesting in tehrm of seaviews on the Gulf of Poets.
Portovenere – Forte Muzzerone.
Portovenere is the starting point for one of the most beautiful walks on the cliffs and the typical Mediterranean vegetation of the area. This path is blue on the map. It is marked as AVG and AV5T on the field. To follow it, you must first climb the steep stairs along the walls of the ancient citadel starting from the circular plaza at the beginning of the historic part of the village. Arrived over the citadel there is already a magnificent view of Portovenere, the church of San Pietro and the island Palmaria. Further up the path will continue without much change in altitude through the scrub. Only do caution some tight spots on the cliffs. However, the view from around the trail is breathtaking.
Arrived at the height of engagement with the path 519 (in yellow on the map), you may decide to go through the same back to Portovenere. At the beginning of this path there is also a restaurant, Rifugio Muzzerone, with great views (good and simple local food).
This ring is about 1,5 km, walkable in 1 hour. 200m vertical drop. Difficulty: E (medium).
Portovenere – Campiglia.
Continuing instead the blue route (AVG and AV5T) it will lead up to Campiglia through Mediterranean scrub, forests and great views over sea and coast. Campiglia is an attractive village with dining options.
The whole path Portovenere – Campiglia is 5,5 km, traveled in 2 hours with difficulty E (Hikers) with altitude drop 500 mt.
Once in Campiglia you can decide whether to go back to Portovenere on the same route (or perhaps taking the deviation, in green on the map and marked 516 on the ground, passing from the
massive Forte Muzzerone), or go to La Spezia or Portovenere by bus from Campiglia.
Portovenere – Le Grazie – Muzzerone.
This path (in red on the map and 518C on the ground) is easy and leads from the road above the Olivo of Portovenere (accessible by stairs) to the picturesque fishing village of Le Grazie. It is 1,3 km long, walkable in 30 minutes elevation 65 mt. difficulty E. Before arriving in the village of Le Grazie a small detour leads to the excavations of an interesting Roman villa.
From Le Grazie you can tackle the trail in yellow on the map, and number 516 on the field, that offers views of the Gulf of La Spezia and then the Cinque Terre coastline arriving at the Fort Muzzerone. It is 1,8 km. long, elevation gain 290 meters. So, going up, calculate one hour with difficulty E.
Although it has been done everything possible in the maps of this app to be accurate in tracing the paths we disclaim any liability on the accuracy of same.
Campiglia Trails.
Campiglia is a beautiful village built like an arch on a ridge. The many paths that branch off from here offer great views of the sea, coast and terraces of the Cinque Terre.
Campiglia – Colle del Telegrafo – Seaside.
The blue route on the map and AV5T on the ground, leads from Campiglia to Colle del Telegrafo where there is also a restaurant. This path, for the most part in the pine forest, is 3,5 km. walkable in 1 hour and a half elevation gain 200 meters. From Colle del Telegrafo you can, if desired, go down to the coastal road of the Cinque Terre (with bar, restaurant and limited transport) through the orange path on the map and 537 on the field, which offers excellent views of the sea, terraced vineyards and scattered houses. This trail is 800m. viable in half an hour difficulty E. (medium)
Campiglia – Persico Beach.
The purple path on the map and marked as 528 on the field, winds through terrace cultivation and the Mediterranean scrub, through some of the most typical landscapes of the coast of the Cinque Terre. It will go via the tiny village of Tramonti with typical houses perched on hills. It is a rather difficult path marked by ups and downs often in steep stairs but you will be rewarded by the views at the arrival to the clear waters of the Persico beach. The trail is 4,2 km with a vertical drop of 395 meters. and traveled in 4 hours there and back. Difficulty: E.
You may also decide to take the detour marked in gray 528v long 500mt. walkable in 30 minutes that will bring in another beautiful point on the coast.
Campiglia – Schiara Ring.
The route in yellow on the map leads to the small town of Schiara and returns in Campiglia with a ring circuit. First you take the path marked as 535 on the map that winds through the woods first and then through vineyards overlooking the sea. After having traveled about 1,500 mt. you will take on the left to the path indicated by number 504 which you will walk about 900 meters among many terraces planted with vines and you will reach the village of Schiara. From there you will continue on the path 504C that, after 800 mt, is reunited with 535 to return to Campiglia. The whole route will be 3,3 km with 400 meters elevation and takes about 2 hours and 30. Difficulty: E.
Monesteroli.
This delightful village of stacked houses on steep slopes overlooking the sea it is so suggestive as to have earned the nickname of “Sixth Terra”. It’s reachable only on foot. Here we suggest two paths.
– Starting at the intersection between the path 535 and 504 (in yellow on the map and described in the section Campiglia – Schiara Ring) continue on the path 535 in blue on the map. It will come to the Fontana di Nozzano where you will turn left and continue on path 535’s cultivated fields, scattered houses and steep stairs up to the intersection with route 536 (in orange on the map). Then turn left on it to descend to Monasteroli on stunning staircases. Not suitable for those who suffer from vertigo but the views are truly unique!
Calculate 3 hours there and back.
– You can also start from the road “Litoranea” to the Cinque Terre after the tunnel coming from La Spezia, that enters the mountain at Biassa and has the output (with parking) at the location Fossola. Here you take the path 535 in orange on the map. You go through the village Fossola and continue between the terraces halfway up the hill and then into the bush until you get on the impressive overhanging staircases (the path becomes the 536) that lead to Monesteroli and the sea.
Although it has been done everything possible in the maps of this app to be accurate in tracing the paths we disclaim any liability on the accuracy of same.
This post is also available in: Italiano (Italian)